This is the grandest of Melville's current trio of '06s. It's also the most ageworthy. Fifty percent stem inclusion in the fermentation has given the wine a tannic, gritty earthiness and spiciness that throw a cloak over the underlying wine. But what a fantastic wine that is, loaded with oodles of cherries, currants and violets. Hard to exaggerate the complexity and broad intellectual appeal of this connoisseur's wine.