From a small family winery and vineyards in Hopland, a good example of this sun-ripened, full-bodied varietal. It's a big, inky wine with aromas of blackberry jam and freshly crushed black peppercorns. The flavors are enormous and extracted and jammy, but it's a dry wine, with 14.5 percent alcohol. It's a fine, robust wine and a quintessential Mendo big red. —S.H.