This tastes like pure varietal Cabernet; it's stiff and tightly wound, and the Horse Heaven Hills fruit has big, drying tannins. Give it some breathing time and it begins to broaden out, showing thin streaks of smoke and iron, along with brambly berry and cassis. This has the structure to age, and should develop further in the bottle over the near term.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.