This is a wine that doesn't mess with niceties, but is right in your face. Intensely perfumed, almost a caricature of Gewürz, this is rich, moving into sweetness, concentrated and very spicy.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.