At nearly 30 years old, this is a mature wine. Toast, almonds and honey are the dominant character. It is soft, although still with structure and crisp acidity. The flavors give a sense almost of sweetness, rounded vanilla as well as the brighter freshness. It is fascinating for its age and, like many older Champagnes, it needs to breathe before drinking.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.