Really taut, tight wine, its mature toastiness embedded in a steely, mineral, very dry texture. The acidity is assertive, wonderfully refreshing, so crisp. It may be 18 years old, but it looks likely to age for several years yet.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.