Moët's vintage, from the hot, low-yielding 2003 vintage, has an unusually high percentage of Pinot Meunier (43%), suggesting there is a distinct character to the year. It's certainly powerful and intense, soft initially, hinting at toast and yeast, the fruit almost sweet, even though the wine is a brut style. It is the rich strawberry flavor that's most surprising on a wine that really has integrated impressively.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.