Monochrome 2020 Smile White (California)

This winery crafts unusual white blends, and in this bottling, the 67% Viognier from Paso Robles gives a pome-fruit core to the lime and sandstone touches of the 33% Chenin Blanc from the Santa Ynez Valley. There's both an oily and a grippy presence on the palate, where poached pear and white-melon flavors align. Matt Kettmann

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