This is big and powerful, soft and rounded, with the tannins buried in the foward black-fruit flavor. It's almost too dense for its own good, a blockbuster that has ripe fruit, but misses out on structure.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.