A disappointment from one of the Douro pioneers of table wines. Light, with red fruit and meaty aromas, it is rather lean and displays tart acids and bitterness. Offers high acid and low richness. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.