Relatively closed up at this stage, not giving much, this wine is all about freshness, poised but rich fruit and a structure that suggests long-term development. The wood is quite prominent, overshadowing what will be delicious yellow-fruit flavors. Come back to this wine in five years—it will be magnificent.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.