The mountain vineyard somehow manages not only to beautifully ripen the grapes to a great expression of fruit, but also preserves vital acidity and lends a firm layer of minerality. The result is a big, powerful wine that easily absorbs its lavish coat of new oak. The flavors are of candied pineapple tart, Meyer lemon mousse and vanilla custard, with a finish of sweet, crushed Asian spices. Perfect now, and just beginning to gather momentum. Drink through 2011, at least, with proper cellaring.