Smoked meats, black olive and tight fruits of cranberry and elderberry meld with dried oregano and leather on the nose of this elegant, earthy bottling from the historic producer. It's still tight and slowly unfurling on the palate, with elderberry and more barrel smoke alongside a rocky minerality. Drink 2018–2028.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.