A lean, somewhat austerely tannic wine, with dry tannins. The fruit is subdued, and there are hints of stalky black currant, disappointing from such a famous name. It could work with steak, when the acidity will cut through the meat.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.