An hommage to the winery's late, great winemaker, Guy Devaux, Mumm's vintage-dated DVX is their tête de cuvée, a selection of the finest lots of grapes which are then given white glove treatment. The 2000 is a worthy successor to its predecessors, rich, smooth and dramatic. It has the silky finesse of great Champagne, with charming lime, raspberry, vanilla and smoky dough flavors. Should age well. Drink now–2010.