Nefarious 2007 Defiance Vineyard Viognier (Columbia Valley (WA))

An elegant Viognier, this first release from a young Lake Chelan vineyard has unusual delicacy for this often-bitter grape. At a moderate 13% alcohol, it shows lemon and lime rind, pink grapefruit and just a hint of white peach flavors. It finishes dry, and despite its lightness, it has a nice grip and persistence through the finish as well as firm acidity. Could be a gem with fresh oysters. Paul Gregutt

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