A more leathery, hot-country wine than Batuta, but this is still mighty impressive. Huge, dark and black, it has dark, rich fruit flavors with great power and concentration. Acidity shows through at the end to just give it a lift. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.