Normans 1999 Chais Clarendon Cabernet Sauvignon (Adelaide Hills)

Call it what you want—big-boned, broad-chested, varón—but this is a manly, sizeable wine, and laudable because it doesn't have some of the cloying, messy richness that big Cabs can sometimes have. Smells of black pepper, and cola or root beer. There's mixed plum fruit, lively acids and gripping tannins on the palate and the finish. Does let up with air, but still probably best after 2007.

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    William Grant & Sons
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