Novelty Hill 2004 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Syrah (Columbia Valley (WA))

I can see why so many of Washington's winemakers love this young vineyard. It is already expressing the sort of subtleties that most viticulturalists would kill for. The fruit is ripe but not too sweet or jammy. It is annotated with citrus, leaf and stem, along with streaks of smoke and herb and mineral. It's all mixed together seamlessly and focused into a firm, almost muscular style with real authority. Paul Gregutt

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