Novelty Hill 2005 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Sémillon (Columbia Valley (WA))

This is just about perfect Sémillon— the gorgeous fruit has more flesh and breadth with flavors suggesting ripe fig, melon and citrus. The use of oak is judicious and thoughtful; it adds grace notes without dominating. You can't help but wonder why this grape remains such a novelty (except, ironically, at Novelty Hill!). It's seductive, delicious and unique. Paul Gregutt

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