The wine has weight, and dense tannins at this stage. What does give it a hint of Volnay's generosity is the warm, full fruit that is behind the structure. It's obviously going to need at least three years to soften out into a more rounded wine.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.