This Bordeaux blend from extreme northeastern Spain is balanced and even, flavorful and silky. From the earth, leather and mint nose through tart berry and faintly anise-tinged flavors, it's surprisingly elegant. Finishes dry, with gentle tannins and hints of licorice, earth and mushrooms. There's much to like in this smooth operator's impressive, supple feel and round, balanced flavors. Drink now through 2005. —M.M.