The wine has so much structure and tension. It is wound up and tight, full of acidity as well as the potential for rich fruits. A steely texture powers up the concentration of this wine, which has a strongly toasty component at this stage. Drink from 2018.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.