This is full of steely acidity as well as complex fruit. It is rich, full of toast and spice that show up the generous swathes of yellow fruits that are just beginning to show their glory. It will develop over many years. Drink from 2017.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.