This certainly has maturity, giving it toasty flavors and a touch of oxidation. But it balances that with ripe yellow fruit, ripe acidity and a firm texture. It's rich and complex, balancing ripe fruit and more a rounded finish. Don't age it, though—enjoy it with food now.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.