Made from vines planted in 1939, this is serious and ageworthy. It is all juicy fruit and acidity, but with a strongly tannic structure and spice. Minerality comes from the granite soil, adding to the wine's potential. Drink from 2016.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.