From four parcels of vines, some more than 50 years old, this is powerfully rich. It has weight, intense structure and acidity, and a racy, nervy texture. With the concentrated flavors, it's going to age well. Drink from 2018.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.