Thirteen years on, this is still not remotely mature. It is a major wine, with its still-tight, vibrant acidity and wonderful piercing grapefruit flavors. The acidity of the vintage is all there, but the strength of this Champagne is that the acidity is finely balanced with minerality and fruit.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.