The steep south-facing Chêne Marchand vineyard provides fruit for this very concentrated and impressive wine. Its weight doesn't come from richness, but rather a powerful structure that underpins a mineral tang and intense freshness.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.