Paul Hobbs 2009 Beckstoffer Las Piedras Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena)

This hovers on the verge of overripeness, with a hint of raisin, but it wisely pulls back at the last second into a luscious fortress of blackberry, cassis, chocolate and sweet smoky oak. So smooth and luxurious on the palate, the texture dazzles, despite some heat. The all-important tannins are nearly perfect. Drink now–2016, especially with steak.

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