There are judicious hints of turned forest floor and barnyard funk on the nose of this wine from just east of the Sta. Rita Hills, with a licorice and wild berry fruit backbone. A lemon brightness highlights the palate, along with tobacco, black olives and a pronounced bitterness. The strong acidity will drive an evolution, so drink 2018–2030.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.