Now at its peak, this impressive wine has moved from fruit to maturity, adding toastiness to its acidity and giving the wine richness. It's full and ripe while keeping the taut, steely edge proper to a Chardonnay Champagne. There's no need to age further. Drink now.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.