Pey-Marin 2006 The Shell Mound Riesling (Marin County)

The grapes barely got ripe in this vineyard in chilly Marin, just north of the Golden Gate. The numbers tell the story. Acidity is .082 grams, alcohol is 11.8%, there's no oak, and the wine was stirred on the lees for five months. The result is an impressive Riesling, one of the driest on the market, a wine of great delicacy and subtlety. Fruit isn't the star here; minerals are. This is a wine to watch.

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