Philip Staley 1999 Somers Vineyard Petite Sirah (Dry Creek Valley)

Connoisseurs are taking a fresh look at this variety despite its reputation as a common wine. Let's get one thing straight: It will never possess the refined personality of, say, Cabernet. But sometimes this rough-edged, drily tannic wine fits the bill perfectly. I'm thinking game, or bruschetta with peppers and onions.

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