This single-vineyard Champagne is always at the summit in Champagne. The 1998 is just at the moment when the fresh fruits move into maturity. There is toast, almond and marzipan, while at the same time pink grapefruit crispness is still there. Drink it now for freshness; keep for many years for maturity.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.