One of the grandest single vineyards in Champagne, an immensely steep south-facing hillside that dominates Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. From here, Philipponnat is able to produce powerful wines with toasty, ripe fruit, powered with yeast and flavors of hazelnuts and white fruits. While not as tense and without the aging potential of 1998, this is without doubt a great Champagne.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.