Gaillard's Clos de Cuminaille shows substantial new oak, but it's reasonably balanced by dark fruit and pepper. It's round in the mouth, with a supple, velvety feel—it may be a touch modern or international, but it still retains a sense of place. Drink now.
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Czerwinski has been a wine journalist, editor and taster for over a decade and is a regular wine panelist, speaker and educator for events and organizations worldwide.