The 1996 vintage really brings out the minerality in a wine. This grand cru is still austere, very crisp, with some smokiness, apple-skin flavors and intense freshness. Give it another 5–6 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.