From 90-year-old vines in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, this is a superbly ripe wine, full-bodied, concentrated with a great swathe of minerality going through. This is still young, based on the 2004 vintage, but shows every sign of developing into a beautifully toasty maturity.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.