Big, ripe berries and currants and tense acidity; this is a wine in mid-development, the youthful richness worn off, the impressive maturity still to come. The tannins are dry, rough-edged, the fruit full of stalky berry character. Give it at least five years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.