Piper-Heidsieck NV Cuvée Jean-Paul Gaultier Brut (Champagne)

Perhaps this wine is the ultimate in Champagne packaging - a leather outer sleeve around the bottle designed by couturier Jean-Paul Gaultier. Does the wine justify the hype? If you like very mature tasting wine, yes, because this is all toast and not much fruit. But it does work, with good acidity to crispen it at the end. Roger Voss

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