Thank goodness we tasted it blind-it's hard to take Champagne seriously when it's packaged in a ridiculous red-leather-and-black-laces bottle wrap, courtesy of Jean-Paul Gaultier. Well, the fashionista magazines dig it for its "style," but we dig it for what's in the bottle: intense aromas white grapes, toasted coconut and white peach, backed by sweet apple notes. In the mouth, dark toast and caramel notes are offset by a slight nectarine-fruity tang. It's so fulland frothy on the palate that the bead makes it way to the back of the throat. Finishes with peach and mineral flavors.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.