True to its varietal character, this is earthy, on the rustic, farmyard side, but balanced with concentrated licorice and fresh black berries. There is a serious core of dusty tannins, but the other flavors dominate a wine that can be drunk now.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.