It may be 22 years old, but this wine is still so young. The long wood aging has brought out a toasty, smoothly textured character while not diminishing the bright acidity and hints of citrus and crispness. It's a beautiful wine that has been bottled at its peak, ready to drink.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.