This is definitely old, an acquired taste perhaps, the wine showing high wood acidity, with a tight character. Any fruit has gone, leaving pure acidity and a very mature texture.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.