Pol Roger's excursion into a bone-dry Champagne brings a house style with natural weight up against an almost bony wine style. The resulting mix is certainly dry, edgy, very crisp, leaning towards austere. Extra bottle time would help the wine to gain weight and flesh out the structure.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.