Poppelvej 2018 North Dread Pinot Noir (Adelaide Hills)

In the broad spectrum of natural wines, this leans quite far to the funky side. It's a cloudy, rusty red in color and despite its relative youth, it feels somewhat tired. There's shriveled red currant and cherry fruit backed by damp earth and savory, spicy and sap. There's also quite a bit of volatile acidity. The light-weight palate is bone dry, with raspy tannins, a crunch of elevated acidity and a sappy, spicy finish. Nevertheless there's a rustic vibe that will appeal to many a natty wine lover, especially if paired with a board of salty, fatty cured meats. Christina Pickard