Prager 2004 Kaiserberg Smaragd Riesling (Wachau)

Loaded with citrus, this Riesling is full in the mouth, yet not soft at all—possessed of a firm backbone of acids and minerals. Bergamot and cinnamon notes on the nose give way to lemony, orangey flavors that finish dry and tart. Hold at least five years. Joe Czerwinski

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