The 600-foot Schützner Stein broods over the Neusiedlersee, a great place to grow Blaufränkisch. Blended with Merlot, this is impressive, a powerhouse of dense tannins and black fruit. The acidity shows through, but the wine is as much about extreme concentration. It needs aging, over 5 years and more.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.