Proteus 2016 Illusion Dry White Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)

Tart and tawny gold, the new vintage of this dry white Pinot Noir (with the addition of 5% Chardonnay) is significantly less ripe than the 2015. The emphasis here is on citrus flesh and rind, with the same sort of phenolic bite you might get from digging into a chunk of lemon skin. It's racy and high in acidity. Two bottles were tasted, with significant variation. The score reflects the better of the two. Paul Gregutt

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